Issue 1 landed on 3 September 2024 with a list of things you didn't know about Melville. A hundred issues later, you're still opening it, replying, and sending the tip-offs that become our best stories. Thank you, every one of you. Welcome to Melville Untold, a hundred issues in, and we still haven't run out of avenues.

In this week’s newsletter,

— Aubrey Moloto, Caroline Koma

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William Gaul and the seat that used to ride up 7th Street. Snap by Snaps On Seventh. You're a small boy in Coetzee Broers, the barber shop two brothers ran on 7th Street. The chairs are made for grown men, so the barber lays a plank across the arms for you to sit, legs dangling, trying not to move. Then you hear it before you see it: a rattle trundling down the street, getting louder, a "hell of a noise" as William Gaul puts it. And then the light in the shop turns green.

"I think the bottom windows of the tram always were in green glass," William told me. "So it cast a kind of green shadow as it went along." He laughs that he may be "totally wrong", but it's the one picture of the trams he's kept since childhood. For about 40 years, that sound and that shadow were how Melville and most of Jozi got around town. This week, for our 100th issue, we're going down Melville history lane and riding the tram.

Johannesburg's first tram left Market Square on 2 February 1891, pulled by horses along rails. "They didn't go very far out of town in those days," William says; they never made it to Mellies, mostly Fordsburg and the inner city.

Electricity flipped that switch. The first electric tram ran on 14 February 1906, and by the end of that year 14 routes were already running. One of them was ours. The Melville line opened on 14 July 1906, the same day the last horse tram made its final trip to Braam.

Marc Latilla of Johannesburg 1912, who's gone back to the tramway department's own notes, traced the route for us. It started at the edge of the Braamfontein Cemetery at Graf Street, ran along to Solomon Street and Annet Street, then onto Kingsway beside the Auckland Park Country Club on its own private track. The early stretch got packed every year for the Rand Show at Milner Park, right opposite the cemetery.

The suburb wanted more, and said so. In 1909, 843 people from Melville, Richmond, Auckland Park and Braamfontein Farm signed a petition for an extension, according to Antoinette Morgan's notes on Richmond's history, shared with us by Alison Wilson of the Melville Koppies and Johannesburg Heritage Foundation. On 26 August that year, the ladies of Melville wrote to the council to thank it "for having been able to get the tramway extensions granted for Melville", and to "beg you to use your best endeavours to have the line as granted completed as soon as possible."

The Geldenhuys family, who owned the farm Melville was built on, backed it with their own money and land. They offered to cover any loss on the line for five years and gave the council 12 stands in Melville free to build it on.

The pleading worked, eventually. On 16 February 1911, a single track opened along Lothbury Street and 7th Street to 4th Avenue, and the year after, it went on 'round the corner to old Main Road. William still calls them by their old names: the Old Terminus at the end of 7th Street, and the New Terminus down 4th Avenue by the swimming baths, across what was then Mulders Drift Road.

Melville's trams were double-deckers, and every one had two people in charge. The driver worked the brakes and set the speed; no steering, the rails did that. William reckons they did "about 40 k's".

Then there was the conductor, and the conductor was a sight. "Pitch black, black cap. Very smart," William says. "No matter how hot it was, you had your black uniform on." Across his chest ran a leather bandolier holding his kit: a silver change dispenser with a little tube for each coin, so a push of a lever popped out your sixpence, and a punch for clipping tickets. Some conductors decorated theirs with silver horse heads and badges.

Schoolkids rode on coupons. A pink tickey coupon, threepence, came in a little cardboard book "that fat", and a green tuppenny one was cheaper still. The conductor tore off the strip at the bottom or punched a hole, and your ticket was spent. There were no return tickets. You used another one to get home.

Every so often an inspector climbed aboard to check. "Boy, if you didn't, you were in trouble," William says. "They were sort of figures of fear. Here comes the inspector, make sure you've got your tickets." Nobody played up on the tram, either. "You had to behave yourself, because the conductor would kick you off."

A tram can't turn around. It has two fronts, so at the terminus the driver climbed out and walked to the other end. The seat backs flipped over, so the conductor swung each one across and everybody faced forward for the trip back. The seat in William's brother's Melville garden is one of those, "very good, very strong wood". Remarkably, it's stood the test of time, still pristine!

Up top, the tram drew power from the overhead wire through a single arm, its trolley pole, dragging behind it at an angle. At the end of the line it had to be flipped round to trail the other way. The conductor did that with a long bamboo pole kept underneath the tram. Bamboo, so it didn't conduct.

The rails were special too. A tram rail has a groove down its whole length for the wheel's flange, because the tracks were sunk level with the road. That groove is how you spot an old tram rail from a train track today.

William's cousin's father was a coach builder at the tram sheds in town. Where the arm met the wire sat a channel of iron dragging along the cable, wearing it out fast. He put ball bearings in it, so it rolled and lasted far longer, and William reckons the tramways rewarded him with "two pounds or something".

The sheds sat beside the power station's cooling towers, which sprayed water everywhere. "Working in the sheds, they were always wet," William remembers, down in the pits under the rails where the trams were serviced.

The last Melville tram ran on 19 June 1948, Marc's notes show. The route went over to trolleybuses, and the rails and wires were taken up for use elsewhere on the network. Marc is clear that the trolleybus was a separate system, with its own wires and no tracks. Melville's was route 67, and it ran until 1986. Joburg's last tram went on 18 March 1961, and it's parked at the James Hall Museum of Transport.

Some of the rails never went far. On the Koppies, along the old Mulders Drift Road, the same road the tram ran to, the two upright poles holding up the wooden bridge over the Westdene Spruit are tram rails. The bridge has stood on them since 1964, Wendy Carstens records. Metal thieves have tried to cut the rails out. "They couldn't!!!" Melville Koppies legend Wendy wrote. As she put it on the Heritage Portal, the trams gave "such a regular if noisy service. They did trundle along quite loudly."

Another set shored up the weir at the Braamfontein Spruit waterfall until thieves took them. William photographed them months before they went.

The People Keeping It On Track

Marc runs Johannesburg 1912, the city's history told one building and one photo at a time, and he's busy with a book on Joburg's trams. Where the published histories disagree, the dates in this piece are his, from the tramway department's own notes. His 1931 map of the north-western suburbs is below.

"Map courtesy of Marc Latilla, Johannesburg 1912"

William, a Johannesburg Heritage Foundation guide, grew up here and writes up the Melville he remembers for the Heritage Portal. You met him in our dairy story.

Next time you're waiting to cross 7th Street, picture it: no taxis, Rea'vaya or Ubers, a double-decker rattling down from Lothbury, a conductor in black with silver on his chest, and a kid on a plank in the barber's chair watching the room go green.

Did your family ride the Melville tram, or the 67 trolleybus after it? Got a photo, a ticket, or a story? Reply to this email. We'd love to see it!

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This Week in Melville: 21 to 27 October, the once-offs worth planning around. View full calendar for the recurring events.

For more updates as the week goes on, visit our Instagram page @snapson7th or our Melville Pulse event calendar

Don’t see your event? Submit it here. Need content coverage? Request a quote. Here’s our work.

This month's artist, Bertus van Rooy, looks at the push and pull between order and chaos. He is an observer of people and city life and then works to capture them with light and form. He uses analogue photography and slower methods like silver gelatin, cyanotype and salt printing. His method sometimes surprises him because “chemistry and materials have a mind of their own”

He finds quiet beauty in the everyday textures and overlooked crevices of Johannesburg. With a background in Biology and an inquisitive mind that alternates between science and art. Bertus lets careful looking and happy experiments shape each piece

If you haven't heard, applications for artists and venues are still open until 30 October. We will be locking in the route and venues soon. For any inquiries, contact Aubrey on 081 826 2904

The next Mile lands on 5 November, the day after the elections. Tickets are already up on Quicket. You can explore the route on your own or join a guided tour that comes with a shuttle and a guide. It’s our second-to-last Mile of the year and a banging way to welcome summer.

We’re always grateful to our sponsors, old and new. To that we extend a huge shout-out to JCW, Lew Geffen Sotheby’s International Realty, the Melville Business Association, Vee’s Imprint Hub, Smoking Kills, Old Buck and the Melville Security Initiative. 

Salute Cafe steps in as a fresh venue. SAE will bring sound gear, PA equipment and student engineers and film students to add extra spark. Royal Crown RTD ciders will be there alongside Old Buck gin, the three-month sponsor that helps create the cocktail punch mixed at SK.

If you’ve joined any of our First Thursdays, we’d love your thoughts. The feedback form is open to everyone who took part, attended, sponsored, volunteered or simply lives nearby. Your ideas help us keep the Mile growing.

SIX Cocktail Bar's has an exciting new weekly tradition happening every Thursday. Starting at 5:30 PM, head over to enjoy some incredible cocktails and yummy food while sketching on A5 canvases. They provide materials free of charge. Every little masterpiece you drop into the doodle box helps children's homes in need. If you already have completed A5 artwork at home, you're invited to donate. Just pop it right in and add your flavour to the collection. This new edition is in collaboration with 1000 Drawings, an experience that debuted at a recent Art Mile.

The taps went quiet again this week. On 15 October, Joburg Water closed the interlink from Hursthill Reservoir 2 so the Brixton reservoirs could recover, which left the suburbs it feeds dry. Water came back on the afternoon of 16 October, turned brown for some homes on the 19th, and by Tuesday morning Greenside, Melville, Parktown West and parts of Auckland Park were without it again.

On Wednesday afternoon, Joburg Water told ward 87 councillor candidate Jonathan Thompson that there's an airlock somewhere in the system, and teams were on the ground bleeding it. By 4pm, one resident on Melville WhatsApp groups reported water "slowly coming back". The Northcliff Melville Times reports that Joburg Water has acknowledged payment delays as work on Hursthill 2 resumes.

In the meantime, the neighbours got on with it. Volunteers manned the community water station on Wednesday morning, and Danny kept his office open until 16:30 for anyone who needed to collect. His own company, CREASS Community Serves, also shared a quick test for brown water: fill a clear glass and let it stand. If it clears from the bottom up, it's probably just air. If it clears from the top down, there's rust or soil in the line, so log it with Joburg Water on 011 375 5555 and ask them to flush it

The MSI's Safe Streets team thanks everyone who came to Saturday’s Community Update Meeting. “It was great to see so many faces, and the notes from the day will be shared online in the coming weeks.”

You can still book a walkthrough with Danny and the Ops Team any time, even if your street has already been visited. A few spots haven’t had a session yet, though and those need input most. They include the corners of Main Road with 2nd Avenue, 5th Avenue, 8th Avenue, 11th Avenue and Auckland Avenue, plus 3rd Avenue and 10th Street, and Landau Terrace.

If you live near any of those points, your feedback really helps the team get the placement right. Booking is open from 20 October right through to 20 December. Visit safestreets.ilovemelville.co.za/meet to pick a time, or sign up for the mailer to stay in the loop.

"Thanks again for the support. The more people chip in, the better the project works for everyone".

CREASS Community Services pushes on with its Pothole Party drive, and things are moving along well. Now, with 25 out of 100 bags of asphalt paid for, It's a solid start toward fixing those rough patches that keep popping up.

Natalie from CREASS put it simply when she said: “R120 today will save you an insurance claim later.” She also explained that the 25 bags showing on the progress tracker are paid-for bags, not just pledges. Darryl Gouws from 9th Avenue has already offered a private donation, which is a decent boost!

The community effort is clearly gathering steam; more community organisations are starting to get involved. Every bag gets the neighbourhoods a bit closer to safer streets, better sidewalks and a stronger local vibe. If you’re keen to help, let this be your call to dive in!

Each week we introduce one cat from Bounty Hunters Charity for Cats on 4th Avenue, run by local legend Gail Millard. The idea is simple. All you need to do is pop in, say hello, and give the cats some company. Donations of food, blankets or items the shop can sell are always welcome too.

This week’s Cat of the Week is Snowy. He’s a furry little guest who’s spending a short time at the shelter while his parents are away on holiday. Snowy isn’t a full-time resident, but he’s settling in and making the most of his stay. You can meet him if you pop in to volunteer.

He’s not the only cat at the shelter. Other cats are also looking for some care and attention. If you have a little time or simply enjoy spending time with cats, the shelter is open for visits.

Not every cat is looking for a home right now. Some are fostered, and Bounty Hunters is also a hospice. "Christmas is coming, so we're keeping the focus on visits rather than adoptions". Pop in and play. "It's cheap therapy", and Gail says it means the world to the cats. Contact Gail at 076 279 6122 to support.

Rain spiders, Hand-sized spiders, have been spotted by several people in Melville this week. On Monday, more than one of these large spiders was seen walking across living-room floors. In one house, they found a spider on a sofa. It was watched as it jumped off with a loud “THUD”, then waltzed straight out through the front door.

Although these spiders look frightening because of their size, they are regarded as harmless to people. Their bite isn't dangerous; they are not known to attack humans. They're actually quite useful 'cause many unwanted insects get eaten by them.

If you happen to find a rain spider inside, you can safely move it outside. Place a glass over the spider and slide a piece of card underneath. Then carry it outside and release it safely.

Hallows Night Around Melville

The Ville will be popping with a few Halloween events before and on Halloween. See next week's "Halloween Gig Guide" for the full list.

Make your way to the Ville next weekend; don't miss the chance to dress up!

Tam Scheidegger, Koppies head conservationist, has a quirky plan brewing up on the Nature Reserve, and the committee has given it the go-ahead. The idea is to make Effective Microorganisms from the droppings of the grazing animals that used to roam the hills long before people came. The hope is that this indigenous soil life might help keep invasive plants like bugweed and lantana in check.

The dung will come from the zoo, though that first needs hurdling over red tape. On 9 October the committee gave it the green light, with our chairperson, Jenny Grice, calling it a “novel idea,” which pretty much sums up the fun of it!

Tam’s already got a batch ready and says it’ll take 10 to 14 days to see if the microorganisms have brewed right. All in all, it’s a strong little story that shows how creative thinking can be invaluable to solving old problems.

When you walk past the old smelter, the same practical spirit shows up, and you will notice a few pompom trees with a ring cut through the bark. “The tree is South African and yet, it doesn't belong on the Witwatersrand ridge and keeps spreading,” Tam explained. She suspects it arrived in the 1960s when members of the archaeological society drove into the reserve from Kafue Road.

The city is now planting the same tree as a street tree; Tam believes it's not wise to plant a tree just for its pretty flowers. But between the dung brew and the careful tree work, the Koppies team shows that hands-on, thoughtful care keeps our urban oasis thriving.

There's a new way to help the Weed Warriors. You can visit the reporting site and report the invasive plants crowding out the Koppies, such as bugweed, lantana, pompom, morning glory, syringa and moth catcher.

A few dedicated folks are quietly getting the fence sorted around the Koppies. CAP Security welded the palisade on 8 October, and they’re now securing the stretch along Judith and Beyers Naude.

A resident and Koppies volunteer stepped in to sponsor a welder for the spare poles, and line up a contractor to help Clement Ndlovu, head foreman of the Koppies conservation team, close the remaining gaps. Clement’s happy to pitch in himself. Alongside the dedicated team, Willem Prinsloo of Lew Geffen Sotheby’s has been clearing bugweed along Main Road as part of his extensive clean-up project.

The MSI’s Danny Nunes sums up the workload nicely, saying, “The team is already juggling about 300 tasks and only gets one day a month free.” Still, the work keeps rolling thanks to people who simply get on with fixing things. It’s another good example of Melville residents looking after their own patch.

Are you up for a gentle morning out with your dog this Saturday? On 24 October, a dog walk takes place at Koppies West. Meet at 7.50 am in the cul-de-sac on 3rd Avenue in Westdene, off Arundel Road, for the 8 am start. It will be R40 cash, and friendly dogs may join.

The next day, 25 October, an 8 km hike runs at Melville Koppies. Hikers meet at Marks Park on Judith Road in Emmarentia. Safe parking is available, or you can use Uber. The group leaves at 8.30 am sharp and returns by 11.30 am at the latest. You can leave the group around 10.30 am at the halfway mark. Adults pay R100, and under-18s pay R50 by cash or card. Wear comfortable shoes and a hat, and bring water and a snack. Some paths are rocky and uneven. Dogs may not join this one because the route starts in the nature reserve, goes around Melville Koppies East and returns to the reserve.

On 8 November, at 9 am, storyteller Merle Grace performs at the lecture hut. You can also catch her at the next Melville Art Mile, doing her thing at Avalon Art, in collaboration with Rae Mandala.

Melville Koppies Nature Reserve is opening its gates for one last stargazing evening of the year. On Saturday 14 November 2026 (or Sunday 15 November if the skies are cloudy), visitors can spend an hour and a half under the Johannesburg night sky.

The session runs from 18:00 to 19:30. Only 20 places are available, so early booking is essential. A telescope will be on hand, and Tony Lelliott will share a short talk about the local night sky and the objects visible that evening.

Weather permitting, guests can hope to see:

Entrance is at 1 Kafue Road, Emmarentia. Visitors should enter through the boomed gate on Gambia Road, off Hill Road. Tickets cost R150 for adults and R50 for children and can be booked on Quicket under the name “Stargazing at Melville Koppies.” Children are welcome.

For any questions, contact the organisers at [email protected] or call 066 571 9539.

Annemie Wentzel Turke and Elroy van Blerk, owners of Agterplaas, together with local literature legend Vincent Pienaar, put on quite a presentation last Saturday for a full house to launch the paperback version of Vincent Pienaar's latest novel, Crimes of Indifference. Set in Jozi, the story was warmly received by the packed Agterplaas dining area.

The book follows Detective Sergeant Piet Masipa as he looks into the killing of Gerrie Carelse, a well-known journalist who was simply in the wrong place during what seemed like an ordinary house robbery. Masipa tracks down the killers and takes the case to trial, but when the system lets everyone down, another force steps in. That force is called Injankulu, or Big Dog, and Masipa has to decide whether the law or justice matters more.

It’s a solid local crime story that digs into the quiet compromises and tired morals of our city. The paperback launch gave readers a chance to chat about it and meet the people behind the event. If you like a proper Joburg thriller, this one’s worth a look.

Support local. Vince has self-published this masterpiece. He explained to the crowd the tough journey self-publishers take and the difficulties they face in getting on bookstore shelves. So please take the extra effort to show our local icon some love by calling him on 082 466 9991 to place an order. And when you see him having his weekly breakfast at Cuppa Cafè or Agterplaas, wish him well and congratulate him on an epic feat, especially in the age of AI!

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'til next week,

Stay ticketed, stay tuned, stay trundling.

Dehna hun ✌️